Italian countryside Archives – Eva Milano
“You may have the universe if I may have Italy.” is a wonderful quote by the great Giusepe Verdi. There’s such a large variety of gorgeous views, historical monuments and delicious dishes on the Boot, that a man really does not need much more. Italy isn’t a very big country, but its riches are infinite. Fortunately, you don’t need to go all the way from Lombardy to Calabria to fall in love with this country. Even a simple tour of Tuscany can charm you for life. The multitude of small towns, landed on the top of a hill, is possibly the loveliest thing about this region. Get ready for a journey back in time because even reading about those places can take you to the Middle Ages.
San Gimignano, also known as “city of 100 towers” actually had just 72 during its zenith in the 14th century. Back then the town was growing substantially thanks to its strategic location on Via Francigena – the piligrimage road that leads from France to Rome. The towers were popping up one after another as the rich families in the town tried to prove their power by building the highest structure. The competition was fierce and soon enough the local government was forced to pass a law forbidding the building of any towers taller than its own – Torre Grossa. But some influential families accept this defeat. That is how the twin towers at Piazza delle Erbe were constructed – their combined height exceeds that any existing tower. Nowadays San Gimignano has only 14 towers left as the rest of them collapsed with time. But the town still has the fame of the “medieval Manhattan”.
The ice-cream at the renown Gelateria Dondoli are no less of an attraction. They are said to be the best in the world. This place is famous with the unique and untraditional flavor combinations such as: chaffrain and pine nuts, pink grapefruit and sparkling wine, Gorgonozola with walnuts, Ricotta with blueberries and spicy chocolate with sour cherry. Whether the ice-cream is the best or not – it’s a matter of taste. But the gelato is definitely worth-trying if you’d like to experiment with a few new flavours.
One thing is absolutely guaranteed – you will fall in love with this town. Go on top of any of the towers to get some spectacular views of San Gimignano and its surrounding area. If you’re still in the mood for something sweet, try pandforte – a dessert made with nuts and dried fruits. Having panforte is almost as traditional here as having a glass of wine!
Insiders tip: If you want to meet some locals and dig deep into the history and traditions of this region, head straight to Piazza Duomo in the late afternoon. Right opposite of the cathedral you may find a large group of some elderly men sitting down. They’re incredibly friendly and will welcome you even if you speak little or no Italian!
Monteriggioni is a fairytale-like town, founded by the Republic of Siena in a strategic location in order to stop the armies of Florence. The castle wall was built back in the 13th century and it borders an almost perfect oval shape. Surprisingly, its shape was not purpose-made, the building just follows the natural typography of the hill. There’s one other interesting coincidence – the towers of the town are 14, too!
Monteriggioni was subject to numerous attacks but its city walls withstood even the most ferocious of them. The town was believed to be impregnable for centuries. A popular legend tells the story of the greedy captain Giovano Zeti who betrayed the town in 1554. He let inside the city walls a group of Florentine soldiers to ambush the Sienese army. That is how Monteriggioni fell under the rule of Florence. Reportedly, the ghost of Zeti was seen on many occasions, wandering these lands in search for forgiveness.
Presently, the stone fortification of Monteriggioni is still intact. It looks as if the time has stopped here and it would take you just a little bit of imagination to go back into the Dark Ages. If you visit the town in the beginning of July during the annual Medieval festival, you will literally immerse yourself in that historical period. Farmers, craftsmen, traders, monks, calaviers stroll down the streets of Monteriggioni. The chaos of music, dances, duels and acrobatic performances, mixed with the flavour of medieval food is truly enchanting.
Travel through Tuscany is meant to be slow. Everything about this region is so astonishing that it’s only natural to stop and marvel. There are heaps of other towns that are worth a visit. The gorgeous sunsets in Volterra and the superb Nutella ice-cream in Lucca are not to be missed. Besides, the views that you will enjoy travelling from one place to another are unforgettable.
I still remember the blue-purple shade of the hills shrouded in fog, the purple skies and the fiery sun at sunrise. The thrill that you get when a rabbit or a deer randomly crosses your path is unexplicable!
